By Leong Weng Kuan and Molly Seidel
In the heart of South Bend’s East Race district sits a tiny brick building with a wide-reaching impact. “PURPLE PORCH CO-OP” is spelled out in iron letters over the door, through which a constant stream of people flow.
Inside, the small space is packed with shelves of nutritious whole foods, vibrant produce, and a cozy cafe with delicious smells that waft through the store.
“Knowing that I’m coming here to get some great food and also support the community just makes it more worthwhile,” says Kathleen Darling, a Purple Porch shopper. Darling, a student at Notre Dame, regularly visits the market and cafe to stock up on groceries and enjoy lunch from the salad bar.
The Purple Porch’s local market serves as community center, and the grocery store, cafe, and weekly farmers market provide city-dwellers access to delicious, sustainable, and local foods right in the heart of urban South Bend. Food Co-ops have gained popularity around the country as a way for concerned shoppers and producers to become more involved in their food choices, and Purple Porch is no different. The market is community-owned, democratically run, and has given shoppers a more transparent, sustainable, and locally-based grocery experience.
Around ten years ago the co-op began as a weekly farmers market which brought together Michiana farmers with South Bend consumers. The goal was to combat a lack of fresh, locally-sourced foods within the city. Over time the market grew, and by 2009 the member-owners of the co-op decided to rent space at Lang Lab on High Street, which houses up-and-coming business ventures in the city. An explosion of popularity after this move allowed the co-op to eventually buy their own building on Hill Street, which today contains the market/cafe and operates seven days a week.
Despite this enormous growth, the Purple Porch still retains the core values on which it was founded: local, sustainable, and transparent. The market specializes in locally grown and organic products from daily fresh produce to personal care items, and operates business with local farmers and producers between a 60-mile radius (local) to a 400-mile radius (regional) around South Bend.
Why choose Local?
While the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) defines local as a 400-mile radius, Purple Porch Co-op focuses heavily on products grown and produced within a 60-mile radius around South Bend.
“While this is somewhat flexible, we pride ourselves in our commitment to keeping the food miles to a minimum,” said Myles Robinson, front operations manager at the market. “That way the food being produced is more sustainable… and it helps people to have a connection to the things they’re eating.”
Dr. Susan Blum, a professor of Anthropology at the University of Notre Dame, says she has a strong passion for local food and the Purple Porch.
“Buying and eating foods that have been produced locally is tangible ways to make a difference in society’s broken systems,” she said, “and the Purple Porch is instrumental for that in South Bend.”
By supporting neighbors, mitigating unequal economies, and bringing wonderful food to people who would otherwise not have access, she believes that co-ops such as the Purple Porch serve as epicenters of positive community change.
Blum served for almost five years on the board of the Purple Porch Co-op, acting as president, vice president, and secretary of the community market. She describes the Co-op as the “thing she thought about the most for several years”; she was instrumental in structuring the co-op’s founding principles of sustainability, local sourcing, community involvement, and transparent production. Today she identifies herself as a proud member of the Co-op and works as an advocate for more sustainable local foodways.
“Purple Porch Co-op is a force for good in the community,” says Blum about the co-op. “And the food, when it is sustainably- and locally-produced like it is here, is truly delicious.”
(Map Courtesy of Purple Porch Co-op)
Wednesday Farmer’s Market
The Purple Porch has grown significantly over the past several years, yet it continues to host the farmer’s market on a weekly basis every Wednesday. Spring through Fall local farmers and producers load up their trucks, drive the short ways to the co-op, and set up tents in the parking lot. Local shoppers can browse the variety of fresh goods, as well as order online ahead of time to pick up their goods direct from the vendors.
The cooperation agreement indicates that Purple Porch only collects a 10 percent surcharge on all sales at the Wednesday market, giving local farmers a wider platform to sell their products and make a profit. Purple Porch Co-op aims to encourage communications between buyers and sellers and to support local food production.
“Local means knowing the people that you work with and being able to advocate for farmers… to help them grow their business,” Robinson said.
According to the farmer’s market policy, customers can meet and communicate with the local producers with transparency, so that consumers can better understand the growing process and enrich themselves in knowledge of where their food is coming from.
The online order services provided by Purple Porch Co-op helps local farmers to save time and budgets for knowing the amount of products that they should bring to the market. And the foremost point is all of the market sellers are producing their food within a 60-mile radius of South Bend, or an hour’s drive to the co-op.
Therefore, it guarantees the food quality for consumers by minimizing the transportation time, and for sellers by reducing the fossil fuels expenditure. So all parties benefit: consumers have fresh food, local farmers gain the most profits and the co-op rewards with agent fees.
Creating an Oasis in a Food Desert
A “food desert” is defined as a low-income urban area that lacks access to grocery stores or healthy food options. For many living in these areas supermarkets are often miles away, restricting food options to unhealthy fast food restaurants or convenience stores.
Food deserts exert enormous negative pressures on people’s’ health. Countless studies have demonstrated that people from low-income urban areas have consistently higher death rates of cancer, diabetes, cardiovascular disease and obesity compared to individuals in more affluent locations.
Dr. John Brett, a professor of Anthropology at University of Colorado-Denver, his recently- finished research examines the reason why the Park Hill neighborhood in Denver which is one of the city’s wealthiest district, has some of the highest rates of food insecurity.
“The key is not about convincing the community to let us come in, but is about to accepting the community as partners,” Brett said.
He expressed the need for “experts” in the field to listen to the life stories and experience of people living within food deserts. Greater understanding and compassion for the individuals affected by this crisis is crucial for treating the problem in the first place.
“Park Hill qualifies as a food desert, but now many people reconsider it as a ‘Food Swamp’- there’re lots of food but they’re not quality food.” He said, “Although there are convenience stores that you can get beers, cigarettes and lottery tickets, not fresh vegetables and meat.”
He said that enhancing the already existed resources is the easiest way to make a change in a food desert, for instance, trying to get funding to add fresh food items in convenience stores.
Food insecurity is essentially a systematic and ethnic problem. “What we come down to is not a matter of lacking food access, but an inequity that created the lack of access, the reason of food insecurity is embedded in its historically determined and socially structured inequalities…the historical reason is predominantly African American becoming Latino neighborhood,” Brett said. “It’s a red line here – if you are non-whites, you can’t buy house there. It’s institutionalized, it’s not a problem of access to be fixed, it’s a system to be changed.”
Brett offered an example of how food access matters on elderly:
“If a 75-year-old man does not drive but take him two buses lines in hours and hours to reach a supermarket,” he said, “… in this case, the old man is geographically accessible to the supermarket, but socially, he can’t.” that’s what the food access problem is happening in Park Hill and that’s why local food is the remedy in any food desert.”
Have you shopped at Purple Porch or a co-op in your hometown? Let me know about your own experience eating locally and sustainably in the comments below.